Exploring the Bounty of Wild Blueberries in Saguenay-Lac-Saint-Jean

You may have followed my short stay in Quebec on Instagram at the end of August, discovering the Canadian wild blueberries, cousins of our European blueberries! With my dear Céline, Laëtitia, Alice, Laura and Lyloutte, we were indeed invited by the WBANA in the region of Saguenay-Lac-Saint-Jean, and more precisely to Dolbeau-Mistassini, capital of the wild blueberry, to experiment with the harvest and the taste of the famous small fruit.

For me who knew absolutely nothing about this culture, the trip will have been very informative, rich in beautiful encounters; I was touched by the incredible importance that the cornflower has not only for the regional economy, but also in the heart, identity and history of the inhabitants. More than just an activity, the cornflower is their flag, and a source of pride.

It is true that this berry has everything to please: its pretty color, quite unique, its fragrant and slightly sweet flavor, without too much acidity, and its remarkable health properties (anti-oxidant power among the highest of all small common fruits, anti-cancer action, anti-inflammatory power...). We enjoyed it during the few days spent on site, and I already miss it!

While waiting to one day, perhaps, return to taste these seasonal delights, I come today to share with you some images and information gleaned during our visits. I hope they will give you a little of the atmosphere we found, and make you want to discover the good products of the region!

THE PILING OF BLUEBERRY IN THE FOREST

Wild blueberries are from small ground plants that grow naturally in the forest areas of the Lake Saint-Jean region. It is believed that their abundant presence is linked to the large fires of 1870, which would have made the nature of the soil favorable to their development.

If, as everywhere, part of the land in the region has been deforested to be used for agriculture and human construction, there are still beautiful massifs around Saguenay, whose preserved ecosystem offers a privileged place for the growth of blueberries. They constitute a significant share in the field, bringing together between 1000 and 1500 pickers per year, for 3 million pounds collected!

We discovered the example of the municipal forest of Normandin, managed by a corporation of different economic actors in the region, in order to support both local development and real environmental respect. Here, part of the blueberry cover is reserved for residents: in season, they can come to harvest their own fruits for non-commercial use. A great family activity!

We were able to experience it ourselves: harvesting is quite physical work, since you have to be constantly squatting or bent in half to reach the bunches, but what a beauty! Of course, all the pleasure also consists of pecking a few in the process...

You can pick blueberries by hand, but most regulars use "combs" to pick them up faster and in larger quantities.

This magnificent setting is also part of the Véloroute des Bleuets, a 256km circuit open to all (cyclists, but also walkers, runners...), which allows you to discover the landscapes and typical products of the region.

THE BLUES, A FAMILY STORY(S)

There are also a large number of wild blueberry farms in the region, called blueberry. We had the chance to visit one, that of Mr. Saint-Pierre, president of the Syndicat des producteurs de bleuets du Québec; surrounded by his wife, granddaughter and daughter-in-law, he told us with pride and passion about his activity.

Unlike cultivated blueberries, which are hybrids specially designed for large-scale agriculture (see the difference here), wild blueberries cannot be planted or sown: they are entirely native, seasonal, and "innate" plants to the land; on the other hand, everything is done to promote their development, and to ensure that their fruiting is generous:

• Everything often starts with a burning of the plot, in order to eliminate the trees and enrich the soil.

• When the plants grow, it is then necessary to weed to avoid competition from other species that could shade and suffocate the blueberries, at the cost of a smaller harvest - like the large ferns that surround them in the forest. This step is carried out manually in organic farming, or with weed killers in conventional agriculture, but never during the year of fruiting (plants produce blueberries every other year).

• On the other hand, it is hardly necessary to take measures against the various pests. The region being located in the boreal zone, few insects and diseases develop there, because they do not resist the cold.

• Finally, at the time of flowering, producers rent the services of beekeepers who bring bees to the field to ensure maximum pollination, and therefore more yield.

The end of summer marks the ripening of the fruits, and it's time for the harvest.

The farms are mostly small and family-family; no one lives only on the cornflower - it is a secondary, temporary activity, a cultural heritage transmitted from generation to generation.

Thus, in August, each family gathers on their plot to camp or live, for a few weeks, in a small house on site called a chalet.

Picking is done mechanically, with small tractors with a large metal comb on the front, which allows you to mow the plants and collect all the berries. We start harvesting before dawn, at night, and until the morning, because that is where blueberries are the least fragile and most juice-flood.

Currently, the region produces between 60 and 70 million pounds of blueberries each year!

The fruits, still mixed with a few leaves and sprigs of wood, are then stored in large transport boxes. They will be sold within hours for processing (including freezing, but also drying or culinary preparations) or to be distributed fresh on the stalls of markets and supermarkets in the region.

With great emotion, Mr. Saint-Pierre also mentioned the great difficulties encountered by producers today: international competition is tough (even in Canada, local blueberry is not always privileged) and prices have fallen so much in recent years that many blueberry farms are about to put the key under the door. The blueberry pound reached the record minimum value of 30 cents (about 20 cents) in 2016; at this stage, their activities are hardly profitable.

Behind the financial aspects, it is of course a whole cultural heritage, a family and regional tradition, that are threatened. Our interlocutor mentioned his childhood memories, picking blueberries every summer with his grandparents and parents, then transmitting it to his children, and now to his granddaughter, to whom he teaches the trade. In his eyes, it is essential that this tradition continues, and that his descendants can have the same opportunities as him.

Blue berrels, here, we have that in the blood. This is part of the local identity: the inhabitants of Dolbeau-Mistassini are themselves referred to as "Blueberries".

To support the approximately 350 local producers, Mr. Saint-Pierre therefore urged us to testify to the unique taste and quality of the small blue berries of Lac Saint-Jean, and of course to praise them as much as possible (during a trip to Quebec, or in a transformed form at home, even if it is more difficult to find): I gladly pass on the message!

BEYOND FRUIT: THE ENHANCEMENT OF LOCAL PRODUCTS

In addition to production and harvesting, this stay also offered us a fairly varied panorama of how these fruits, as well as other typically local products, are valued in the region.

If the blue pearl is a source of wealth and jobs at the source, it is also at the heart of the spirit of entrepreneurship and innovation of the locals, who are particularly passionate about their terroir. Here are some examples of very nice projects born around blueberries, but not only!

♥︎ Nutrableu: It is thanks to the passion and perseverance of the co-founders of Nutrableu that today, the wild blueberry of the Lake Saint-Jean region is distributed fresh throughout Quebec, and little by little, in the rest of Canada. With such a fragile fruit, the bet was very complicated, but it's starting to pay off! You will find their products under the name "Bleu Sauvage".

♥︎ Délices du Lac Saint-Jean (photo): This family business, composed of a mother and her two daughters, specializes in the processing of local blueberry. Their shop, which is also an eco-museum, is full of delicacies around the small blue pearl. I particularly recommend blueberry jam with organic maple syrup, chutney, and of course the delicious pie, which you can carry in your luggage.

♥︎ Microbrasserie La Chouape: Favorite for this warm brasserie in Saint-Félicien, ideal for beautiful summer days: you can settle on the cute terrace by the water, and taste one of their local creations. I tasted the blueberry beer, and I loved it: no bitterness, no sweet taste despite the slightly fruity notes, and maximum freshness!

♥︎ Chocolaterie des Pères: In Dolbeau-Mistassini, this community of Trappist fathers is known for its production of gourmet chocolates. Unfortunately, it is not possible to visit the manufacturing circuit, but do not leave without tasting their sublime fresh blueberries coated with dark chocolate.

♥︎ Fromagerie Ferme des Chutes: This family farm offers artisanal cheeses obtained from the milk of their hundred cows, raised in organic farming at the back of the shop. The two typical references of the region are proposed there (cheddar, and curd cheese, which is used in the poutine), as well as sublime fresh yogurts. In season, there is cornflower yogurt from the corner, of course!

♥︎ Wallberg Market: This large place looks more like what we would call a supermarket or a large surface in France. It was opened a few months ago in the heart of Dolbeau-Mistassini by the Deux Rives cooperative (which brings together many producers, market gardeners, and other entrepreneurs in the region) in order to sell and promote local products without intermediaries. In addition to more traditional food departments, you will find fresh blueberries from Lac Saint-Jean, of course, but also all kinds of beers, cheeses, jams, etc... made nearby. At lunchtime, you can also have your meal there, also prepared from regional foods.

♥︎ Ta Peau Ton Fruit: Fallen into the world of blueberries from her earliest childhood, Amélie Fortin had the idea, at the age of 24, to create a range of cosmetics taking advantage of the extraordinary properties of the small blue fruit, especially in terms of antioxidant action. Its first product is a moisturizing treatment that exploits the flesh, skin, but also the seeds and the local cornflower leaf. Associated with the extract of a small Australian berry, the kakadu plum, the result gives a cream that promises maximum radiance! I will test it this winter, but in the meantime, I particularly appreciate the choices of manufacturing (made in Quebec) and composition: everything is 100% natural, vegan and cruelty-free.

WHERE TO FIND QUEBEC BLUEBERS IN FRANCE?

To my knowledge, it is unfortunately a little complicated.

Blueberries are mainly imported into Europe in frozen form, for obvious ease of preservation, but I don't know if a particular brand distributes them; look carefully at the provenance information.

As for products processed from blueberries, you have to turn to specialized shops: I found some here, here and there, if you want to test one day. Why not also watch the Canadian stands at the major Christmas markets in a few months!

Source: https://www.mangoandsalt.com/2017/09/12/saguenay-lac-saint-jean-region-bleuet-sauvage/